Next of Kin
546 Glenhuntly Rd, Elsternwick
03 9041 8876
Sensing the end of our time off university and needing a final spontaneous cafe trip, we headed to the newly opened Next of Kin in Elsternwick for brunch. I had seen a couple of gorgeous instagram shots of crumpets and salmon (not together!!), realised it actually wasn’t too far from Monash, and put it on the list of places to try. Hardly visible from the outside, Next of Kin is small and unassuming, and we weren’t sure what to expect when when we entered the quiet and mostly empty cafe. Luckily, music was turned on a little while later, saving the atmosphere and ensuring we didn’t feel like we had to speak in hushed tones. Sponge-finger-like cushions and green wall pot-plants line one wall, while a small door at the rear leads to extra seating in a back courtyard.
The menu is small but very reasonably priced, and there were some innovative and tempting options, whether it be the toasted banana and cacao bread with date salted caramel, coconut ice cream, and coffee crumbs ($14), the green apple bircher with acai, banana, coconut yoghurt, chia and goji’s ($11), the smokey braised beans with corn bread, goats curd, pistachios, and eggs ($16), or the lamb tacos with pickled cabbage, machego, avocado, and chipotle mayo ($18). Those less adventurous should be covered by the free range eggs your way ($9) and the big breakfast ($19.5). From the cabinet, three flavours of ciabatta rolls ($9.5) plus a daily salad covered the quick lunch and takeaway options.
Being our normal indecisive selves and wanting to try multiple options, Kate and I split the house smoked salmon with avocado, pickled beets, dukkah, poached eggs and seeds & sprout toast ($19), as well as the crumpets. The generous serving of salmon was hot smoked, a great change from the cold-smoked salmon served at most cafes, and had a woodsy spiced flavour that blended perfectly with the grated beetroot and dukkah. The eggs were cooked perfectly, and although the piped smooth avocado did look beautiful, my one query about this dish would be whether smashed, textural chunks of avocado would work better.
Though torn between the lamb tacos and big breakfast, Kate (a different one!) also went for the house smoked salmon and was another fan.
Having heard many times about the quality of Dr Marty’s Crumpets but never managing to get to a market where they were available, I was immediately sold on the Dr Marty’s crumpets with citrus curb, aerated rhubarb mascarpone, rhubarb compote and hazelnut praline ($16). These. Were. Amazing. The light, crispy edged crumpets were covered in smooth, tangy lemon curd and fluffy rhubarb mascarpone – sweetness that was cut through by the distinct tartness of the rhubarb compote and the textural contrast of fresh berries and crunchy hazelnut praline. So good. Definitely a dish for people who love sweet things, but a winning flavour combination.
Next of Kin also serves Proud Mary coffee and Aunty Peg’s cakes. Although the cabinet sweets were relatively sparse, we did notice a board of croissants and salted caramel macadamia cruffins (a croissant-muffin hybrid) on the counter and had to take a couple of cruffins to go. Kate hadn’t heard of cruffins before, so I tried to describe them as “flaky, buttery, crisp and.. just good!” – luckily, my prediction was spot-on: these cruffins are a must-try if there are any left when you visit.
Although we thought our plates were perhaps a little slow to arrive considering how quiet the cafe was, we received very friendly service, bringing Kate and I new knives and forks to move onto our sweet crumpets and offering an extra plate.
Next of Kin is an excellent new neighbourhood brunch spot and seems to be rapidly accruing fans: get in while it is new before you find yourselves queuing for a weekend table!
Rating: 7/10
Don’t miss: the Dr Marty’s crumpets or the cruffins
Pro-tip: try to sit out the back on a nice day
Features: child-friendly, Proud Mary’s coffee, Aunty Peg’s cakes
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