Square and Compass: Review

Square and Compass
222 Clarendon St, East Melbourne
(03) 9416 4914
http://squareandcompass.com.au

Being back in Melbourne can mean only one thing – back to regular brunching (with a bit of study on the side, of course). Newly opened Square and Compass in East Melbourne was the first pick: with chefs and owners Kael Sahely, Matt Stribly and Jeremy Fraser having previously worked at a host of top Melbourne cafes between them (think Barry, Pillar of Salt, Touchwood..), we went armed with high expectations. Tucked away in an old red-brick Victorian building, it appears a little out of place in a suburb largely devoid of cafes – which means the regulars are piling in the door. Packed out even on a Tuesday lunchtime with work lunches, we sat outside to avoid a wait, though they could do with some gas heaters in winter! Faced with little natural light inside, they have utilized a clean-lined, light interior with pale wooden furnishings to maximise the space, albeit at the cost of noise levels, amplified by the hard surfaces.

Simple and reflective of contemporary Melbourne cafe dining, the menu caters for the growing health-conscious sector: five grain porridge is given a wintery twist with roasted apple puree and spiced crumble ($13.5), the ubiquitous avocado toast is paired with goats curd, tomato, salad, raw beetroot relish and kale chips ($16.5), while more unusual options such as toast with crunchy peanut butter, heirloom tomatoes, and salt & pepper peanuts ($13) and omelette with chargrilled leek, mushroom, hazelnuts and pecorino ($16.5) also grace the all day feast. The coffee is Seven Seeds, and thus reliably good, while vegetable packed cold press juices offer a dose of vitamins for those fighting off the winter cold.

The broccolini breakfast bowl ($17) was my pick: well executed and punchy with flavour, this would have to be my favourite green salad in Melbourne thus far. Broccolini, still holding a bit of crunch, is tossed with a generous serve of avocado, spinach as the leafy green, the unsurpassable texture and mild spice of activated almonds and dukkah – all coated in a Asian-style tamari and black sesame dressing and topped with perfectly poached eggs and thick slabs of grainy toast. I paired it with a side of goats curd for an extra creamy tang of flavour – would recommend.

Jamie’s choice was reminiscent of the Kettle Black’s crayfish roll: fresh South Australian lobster is given a contemporary Australian-Asian twist, served in a soft brioche roll with creamy sriracha mayo, the fresh crunch of green papaya and an extra punch of flavour with lime and coriander ($24). If the speed at which it was consumed at all reflects the enjoyment, I’d say it was a winner.

Dan opted for the chicken schnitzel ($19.5) – herb and parmesan crusted chicken is topped with a heaping pile of fennel slaw and given heat with a salsa rossa dressing. Of course, we couldn’t leave without trying something sweet, so shared the waffles ($16.5). Though very pretty, it wasn’t as impressive as some of the other dishes, with the waffles missing a bit of fluffiness and crisp edges and the topping leaving it going soft surprisingly quickly. In saying this, it was saved by the sweet-sour contrast of the strawberry-rhubarb compote, fresh berries and the textural addition of house-made gingery brandy-snaps.

The opening of Square and Compass pitches another high quality cafe to brunch-savvy Melbournians, and judging by the lines out the door on weekends, there is an ever-growing market for it. Friendly and efficient service, innovative healthy options with fresh, seasonal ingredients, a packed takeaway cabinet and great coffee has got to be a recipe for success.

Rating: 7.5/10
Don’t miss: the broccolini bowl
Pro tip: bring a coat to sit outside, or pop past on your way to work to pick up a take-away bircher and coffee
Features: takeaway, Seven Seeds coffee, Doughboys Doughnuts