Barcelona Food & Wander Guide

Barcelona Food & Wander Guide – a brief snapshot of our favourite tapas bars and third wave coffee shops with tips and tricks to maximise your sightseeing time. 

Where do I start with Barcelona? It was vibrant, splashed with golden light and warm colours. Loud, with music and conversation spilling out of doorways and bars. It’s a place where you are constantly looking up –  up to the nature-inspired, expansive curved lines of Gaudi’s architecture, up the narrow streets with overhanging balcony gardens and laundry lines. A photograph around every corner. Coffee nearing Melbourne standards at Satan’s, and too many tapas places to even make a dent on the list (and I’m now starting to understand the fuss about proper fresh anchovies and sardines). 

Yes, it has a reputation as being completely overrun by tourists (at least the old quarter), and no, I do not speak Catalan and yes, I visited at probably one of the busiest times of year (late June). I still loved it. I think the key is to plan ahead a little. Seek out small coffee shops for respite from the crowds, avoid Las Ramblas if at all possible, visit El Gotic and the major Gaudi sites in the early morning or late evening, book everything in advance to avoid queues, and explore different neighbourhoods – El Born, Poble Sec, Gracia and Eixample.  We stayed in an airbnb on the far edge of El Born near Parc de la Cuitadella, which was perfect for walking everywhere and far enough from the crowds of the central historical area not to be hit by a selfie stick every few metres. 

I also owe a big thank you to everyone who gave me recommendations – they were absolutely invaluable and I hope I did them some justice! Below are some of my favourites that we visited – a brief snapshot of our favourite tapas bars and third wave coffee shops with tips and tricks to maximise your sightseeing time.

Coffee

• Satans Coffee Co: one of the original 3rd wave coffee shops in Barcelona, Satan’s has 2 locations –  one in El Gotic and the other in Eixample. The former makes a perfect morning pitstop from the crowds for a flat white – pair it with the Japanese breakfast or the cool and creamy greek yogurt with green plaintains, caramelised peanuts and coconut. 
• Black Remedy: a second specialty coffee option in El Gothic, Black Remedy is perfect for freelancers with its free wifi, plentiful tables and industrial feel. 
• Onna Coffee: walk back from Park Guell, or up from Casa Mila, via Onna in Gracia for a morning flat white or cold brew to power you through a day of Gaudi sightseeing.
• Nomad Coffee: a specialty coffee lab in El Born, perfect for a quick cup to fuel a day of sightseeing.
• Though I did not get to them on this trip, if you are looking for more of a brunch experience, many recommended the Australian-owned Caravelle and Federal Cafe. Also on the list was Brunch & Cake and Flax & Kale (the latter particularly useful for those who are vegan or with food intolerances). 

Pastries / Sweets:

• Baluard Bakery: apparently some of the best bread you can find in Barcelona, Baluard has a number of outfits full of different varieties of sourdough, filled rolls, gorgeous pizza by the slice (ours was topped spinach, prosciutto and pinenuts), seasonal fruit tarts or ensaimada – a spiral pastry from Mallorca like a cross between a croissant and a yeasted brioche.  It’s a perfect stop for a a quick lunch to either take to the beach from Barceloneta, or up in Example mid Gaudi exploring. 
• Hofmann Pasticeria: tucked down an alleyway in El Born, Hofmann produces the best stuffed croissants I’ve ever tried, flaky and oozing with mascarpone, or raspberry compote and cheesecake cream. Take them to the nearby square to sit on a bench and people-watch (and try not to return for more!). 
• Demasie: walking past this window display is an exercise in self-restraint – full of trays and trays of freshly baked scrolls of every description, from the traditional cinnamon to nutella and tiramisu. Eat warm and with your hands. 
• Xurreria Laietana: seeing as churros originated in Spain, I attempted to find the best in the area. We tried a few but the top by far was this tiny storefront in El Gotic serving up freshly fried thin churros and thicker porras along with a mug of decadent, custard-y hot chocolate for dipping. Check their opening hours because they close early afternoon and then shut early evening. 
• Gelaaati di marco: the number of gelato offerings in Barcelona surprised me (I was ready to wait for Italy!) but I couldn’t bypass this place – their award winning dark chocolate, rum and passionfruit was well worth a scoop on a sweltering evening. 

To eat

• La Boqueria: though this market may be renowned for its colourful towers of fruit juices and hanging displays of iberica ham, go early for breakfast before the tourist rush descends and grab a seat at Pinotxo Bar. Start with a plate of giant chickpeas fried with pork and move onto whatever special they have on offer that day – maybe octopus ceviche, sweet smoked sardines in balsamic and olive oil, or baby squid. Don’t leave without trying the xuxo pastries – like a light flaky fried croissant stuffed with creme patisserie. We ended up ordering a second. If you love markets, also check out the Santa Caterina market nearby. 
• La Xampanyeria: expect to stand three people deep against a bar in this buzzing, tiny space for small plates of meats, cheeses while glasses of cheap house cava appear in front of you. Don’t forget the hot burgers, made and toasted in front of you – I can thoroughly recommend the jamon & melty camembert combination.
• Bar del Pla: a small bar serving up some of the best bites in El Gotic. Either come early, be prepared to stand or reserve a table. Try the patatas braves – thick cut, crispy-edged and draped in both a smoky, spicy tomato sauce and a creamy, garlic aioli-like dressing.
• El Xampanyet: brimming with a mix of tourists and locals, but still more than worth braving the crowds. Either stand at a bar for the smaller tapas, or wait for a table to try the bigger plates. Would thoroughly recommend the chorizo & potato omelette, the seared steak with fried padron peppers, and the chickpeas with vegetables. 
• La Cova Fumada: if you’re down in Barceloneta and want to try seafood near the beach, this is for you. No frills, just plates of glistening grilled sardines with oil and herbs, squid and whatever else is fresh off the boats on the day. Open for lunch only – check the hours. 
• Quimet y Quimet: one of Barcelona’s most iconic tapas bars, lined floor to ceiling with colourful preserves and wines. It specialises in montaditos – small open faced, crunchy sandwiches with crazy delicious toppings – think tangy yogurt, thick folds of smoked salmon and gooey truffled honey (trust me, it’s a must). Pair with a glass or two or vermouth, spicy and syrupy. Quimet was featured by Anthony Bourdain and it might feel more than a little tourist jammed, but there is usually room to squeeze in at the bar and you’ll be served quickly. Also a great reason to wander the lovely streets of El Poble Sec, perhaps on the way back from an afternoon exploring Montjuic. 
• La Plata: a tiny vermouth and wine bar with limited seating, stop for a drink and some of the best fried anchovies in town. 

To see amidst the eating! 

• El Gotic: the historical centre of the city, all narrow streets draped with laundry and tourists wielding cameras. Wander around in the early morning, perhaps on your way to La Boqueria, avoid Las Ramblas if at all possible, and maybe try a free walking tour (we did a Runner Bean tour) to learn a little about the history of the area. 
• Everything Gaudi: the key here is to book ahead and choose your times and what you want to see carefully. Get to Park Guell for an early morning or evening visit, and sit in the gardens with a picnic before wandering back down the hill through Gracia for gorgeous tree-lined streets, small shops and galleries  (maybe with a visit to Onna Cafe on the way). Head back to Eixample and admire La Pedrera (Casa Mila) and Casa Batlo – we did the audio guided tour through La Pedrera, which I chose over the latter for the rooftop sculptures (Star Wars, anyone?), views and the furnished apartments. Wander down Passage de Gracia – the rest of the buildings aren’t exactly shabby either. And clearly you can’t miss La Sagrada Familia (again, book in advance). Early morning for fewer crowds, late afternoon for gorgeous rainbows of light streaming in the stained glass windows.
• Barceloneta beach – if you’re from Australia or New Zealand, the beaches won’t exactly wow you but a lovely few hours can be spent hiring a bike or rollerblades and exploring the coast line (we hired bikes from Green Bikes). 
• Picasso Museum: set in El Born in a maze of castle-like stone buildings complete with courtyards and gardens, this is one of the most complete collections of Picasso’s work in a city where he spent his formative years. Not to sound like a stuck record, but if you’re visiting Barcelona at peak times, book tickets ahead. They also have free tickets on Thursday evenings if you’re on a budget.
• Montjuic: a former quarry, then castle and military base, then site of the 1992 Barcelona Olympics overlooking Barcelona, and now a veritable trove of various attractions – museums, stadiums and gardens. Take the funicular railway from Parallel then wander up to the castle (it’s worth the entry for the views over the harbour). Walk back via the National Art Museum and the fountains leading up to it. 
• Bunkers del carmel: a beautiful spot up on the hills for a evening picnic, perfectly positioned to watch the sun coming down over Barcelona. 

Of course, this was only a short trip and there were countless other restaurants, bakeries, markets and cafes on the list to visit. Thank you again to everyone who sent me their recommendations!