Honey Roast Peach Slab Pavlova

Although I generally consider myself pretty proficient in the kitchen, one recipe I can’t seem to master is the humble pavlova. Though I make valiant attempts multiple times each summer, they’re completely hit and miss. Adding to my frustration is that fact that I’m a New Zealander – pavlova originated here, or close enough. I’ve read all the advice columns and tried all the tips and tricks – heating the sugar first, using cornflour and white vinegar, wiping my bowl with lemon juice to reduce any skerrick of fat – and yet still can’t put my finger on what differentiates the pavs that stand up with a perfect crisp exterior and fluffy centre, and those that crack like paving stones, collapse into themselves and develop a faint chewiness to the crust. Is it the near constant 99% humidity in Auckland summers? My faulty oven (which, to be fair, I am pretty sure is not at the right temperature and I should really invest in an oven thermometer)? Did I add the sugar too fast or too slow, or not quite get it to fully dissolve? I once over-beat the egg whites into a grainy, separating mess – the one downside to a stand-alone mixer is the potential for distraction. Maybe it’s a combination of everything. 

I’ve almost given up on the dream of a perfectly tall, symmetric, snow-white and shapely pavlova. For a long time my loyalties lay with miniature pavlovas, more like extra-large meringues that retained some of that fluffy interior – topping them with passionfruit curd and whipped cream, or filling them with raspberries and dark chocolate (link). But sometimes you want more of a centre piece – a dessert fit for a crowd that you can bring out to impress, minus the constant worry that your lack of pavlova skill is about to reveal itself. Enter: the slab pavlova. It’s significantly more forgiving. The weight of your toppings is distributed over a thinner rectangular base, reducing the risk of collapse. It’s WAY easier to cut up and serve. It still looks great. You still get that crunchy crust, swirly edges and signature fluffy pavlova middle. I’m not going back (at least not until someone can teach me their perfect pavlova ways).

It’s a very kiwi combination: pavlova (ok, let’s not argue about the origins at this point), crunchy golden syrup-laden hokey pokey, and fragrant honey roast peaches. Pav is traditionally topped with freshly whipped cream, but I’m a fan of this creme-fraiche / mascarpone combination – thicker, with a tangy edge that goes well with the sweet topping.

 Just a warning to consider closing your windows if you’re roasting these peaches in summer –  I managed to lure about 20 bees into our kitchen and living room with the smell of the roasted honey (in fact, I think one managed to get in one of these pictures if you can spot it.). My brothers started trapping them to take outside before we realised there isn’t much oxygen for a poor bee in an upside down glass. It resulted in a flurry of google searches in an attempt to identify these as wasps or bees – we figured we didn’t want to be responsible for depleting the Auckland bee population. Anyway, the resultant peaches are gloriously tender, blistered and syrupy, and I’ll be making them again and again just to put with whatever I have on hand. 

I’m not sure if hokey pokey is as ubiquitous around the world as it is in New Zealand. It’s a classic from the Edmond’s cookbook, the kind of sticky treat you make as a kid to watch the boiling syrup froth up, tripling in size and lightening as you add baking soda. Magic, or at least a fun science experiment. It should be something like the inside of a crunchie bar, but if you don’t let it set hard or make it on a particular humid day it can get a bit sticky and gummier – try popping it in the freezer for a while if this happens. Hokey pokey ice cream is summer in a cone – vanilla ice cream dotted with small caramel dots of hokey pokey (or, in the case of my local gelateria, vanilla bean gelato with chunks of gorgeous sticky chunks of the stuff). If you’re going for something a bit less sweet, I’d try crumbled up halva or a sesame brittle instead. 

I’m also posting now as it is summer in the UK and peaches are everywhere, but usually at home this would be more of a summer Christmas thing come December. It feels counterintuitive to post a winter recipe while it’s hot, but tell me, are you from the Northern or Southern hemisphere? 

Baker’s Notes:

• Make the pavlova the evening before if you can, so you can leave it to cool in the oven overnight.
• The hokey pokey and peaches can also be prepared ahead.
• If you want something less sweet than hokey pokey, I’d recommend trying crumbled up halva or a nutty brittle, like sesame.
• Make the mascarpone cream and assemble just before serving.