After visiting Copenhagen this year, it didn’t surprise me that it was recently named Lonely Planet’s top city to visit in 2019. If it wasn’t for the long, cold winters, I might have moved there already. Though the Danes seem to have developed a solution even for that: the concept of hygge (pronounced hue-guh) which embraces all things cozy and comforting, like a giant hug of warm baths and candles, books by a crackling fireplace, long lazy dinners and snuggly sweatpants. Copenhagen well and truly won me over.
Copenhagen has experienced a culinary resurgence of late, spearheaded by Noma and their chefs making waves in their own ventures (think best-outside-Tokyo ramen at Slurp, and plates of fresh corn tortillas straight from Mexico at Hija de Sanchez) . We tripped between bakeries with pastries to rival Paris: yeasty knotted cardamom buns, the lightest koign amann, buttery almond croissants and warm cinnamon scrolls topped with chocolate ganache – with coffee to match. There was chewy sourdough served up with sliced cheese and thick cream (don’t knock it till you’ve tried it), and cabinets of traditional sturdy smorrebrod with endless cold (and colourful) toppings. I was also lucky to be invited on a Foods of Copenhagen afternoon tour, and it was a highlight of the trip – a walking tour, history lesson and food guide to the city all at once. I can’t give away their secrets (though I hear the route changes regularly), but I would highly recommend it.
It’s a city made to be seen on two wheels: less than a third of locals own cars, and it’s the safest I’ve ever felt on cycle paths. Hire a bike and you’ll suddenly cover far more ground and feel much less like a tourist. The most inexpensive option we found were the ubiquitous orange Donkey bikes (maybe not stylish, but very functional). That’s the other thing – Copenhagen is big on style. Despite the odd moment of feeling just a little short and frumpy, it was people-watching central: effortlessly cycling and chatting in flowing dresses, meeting for sunset drinks on the bridge, stopping for coffee and picnicking in parks. There’s multiple royal castles and modern design museums if that’s your thing (I’ve had Glyptotek, the David Collection and SMK recommended), but even simply cycling and wandering the cobbled streets of different neighbourhoods was more than enough.
Yes, it is an expensive place to visit, but not drastically different to London. My student budget meant there was no fine dining, so here are a few of my favourite slightly cheaper eats and sights.
Bakeries and Coffee Shops
- Anderson & Maillard: a bright airy cafe, roastery and freelance workspace – try the ultra-flaky and light koign amann, the espresso soft serve in summer, or the coffee brushed croissants.
- Juno the Bakery: tucked down an unassuming street well away from tourists, we were greeted by the smell of cardamom and a line out the door of locals grabbing boxes of baking for the weekend. Cardamom buns emerged from the oven about as fast as they were bought, and it was definitely the best of the trip (the best I’ve had ever, actually). I also grabbed a loaf of the densest rye bread I’ve tried and a gorgeous pistachio and raspberry frangipane tart.
- The Corner at 108: a casual off-shoot of Noma comprising a small plates restaurant and a relaxed cafe and bakery. The latter is where we found coffee and berry kombucha multi-layered pastries, and the best sourdough, sliced cheese and whipped cream/butter combination of the trip.
- Democratic Coffee: coffee, workspace backing onto a library and the best almond croissants being made in full view of the counter.
- Coffee Collective: located in a few different areas of the city , this was the best coffee of the trip – and watch out for the espresso soft serve if you’re here in summer.
- Atelier September: another cafe to people watch (or be watched, who knows) and dive into their thick greek yogurt with zucchini jam, pecan granola and basil, or the ultimate avocado toast. It’s very central, so perfect for breakfast before heading to the Round Tower, a museum or castle.
- Meyers Bageri: one of the more famous (and now a chain) bakeries in Copenhagen, it’s hard to beat the warm, flaky cinnamon scrolls topped with chocolate ganache if you’re walking past.
- Sankt Peters Bageri: the oldest bakery in the city (it opened in 1652), and especially worth a visit on a Wednesday for their infamous extra large cinnamon scroll (otherwise known as snails, or onsdagssnegle)
- Grod: though most famed for its hearty morning porridge offerings, the meaning of Grod goes further than the sweet breakfast oats we might imagine, including everything from rice puddings, dahl, risotto and congee. Savoury or sweet, warm or cold, there’s something here for everyone. Try to make it to the original store in Norrebro, but if not there’s also a stall in the Torrehalvane market.
Lunches and dinners
- Slurp Ramen: I’ve never been to Japan, so I can safely say this was the best bowl of miso ramen I’ve tried. Line up at a fluorescent bar elbow to elbow with strangers for fast service, loud music and house-made noodles.
- Baest: the ultimate farm-to-table sourdough pizza joint – almost everything, cheeses and charcuterie included, comes from their farm. We ate two pizzas and plates of fresh ricotta and stracciatella between the two of us, and staggered home via Nice Cream.
- Mirabelle: situated in the same little precinct as Baest, Mirabelle’s highlights are its morning pastries – get a sourdough croissant – and daily specials of hearty house-made pasta plates.
- Brus: a craft brewery next to Baest and Mirabelle, this is the place for as lazy sunny afternoon with a crowd – the food is just as good as the beer. They had me at fermented fries.
- Manfreds: a local, seasonal and relaxed restaurant serving up vegetable focused small plates (though ironically the steak tartare with rye is probably the most hyped dish on the menu). Also reasonably priced, for Copenhagen and this quality of food.
- Apollo Kantine: by the owners of Atelier September, this is more of a lunch/drinks version. The slab of sourdough topped with fresh ricotta stained with the mound of juicy seasonal blackberries above was epic.
- Hija de Sanchez: opened by Rosio Sanchez, former Noma pastry chef, this taqueria was everything I’ve wanted since I ate tacos on the streets of Mexico two years ago. Small and packed with flavour – think fresh corn tortillas, fried eggs, slabs of avocado, bursts of lime juice and liberal coriander and tender pulled pork (it also avoids the oily cheesiness that haunts many Mexican joints).
- Nice Cream: the best vegan ice cream I’ve ever tried. You wouldn’t guess it was vegan – and it comes in flavours full of brownie chunks, salted caramel, and peanut butter swirls.
- A few more that I didn’t quite make it to:
- Mahalle Cafe: for affordable Lebanese. Make sure to book ahead- we missed out.
- Nordisk Falafel: for cheap and cheerful falafel and silky hummus that apparently won the best falafel of 2018.
Neighbourhoods and sights to see
- A Foods of Copenhagen tour: an afternoon accompanied by a local with inside knowledge of the best mix of boutique, up-and-coming and historic eateries that Copenhagen has to offer – I’d done extensive research on where to eat before this trip, and the tour still managed to surprise me.
- Norrebro for some of the best food in the city, craft beer, boutique shopping and the Assistens cemetery (the burial place of Hans Christian Anderson, and also a popular place to cycle through and picnic).
- The city centre for Torrehalvane market, shopping, a trip up the Round Tower and a peek into the white and gold interiors of the church next door, a visit to Rosenburg castle and Amelianborg, a wander through the Botanical Gardens. In summer, spend an evening at the glittering, old school Tivoli Gardens and theme park.
- Vesterbro for the red light district turned hipster hangout – graffiti and flat whites included.
- Osterbro for the best cardamom buns at Juno and a more family friendly suburb.
- Nyhavn for that iconic colourful strip of townhouses on the water – an entertainment district since the 17th century. Wander over the bridge to the Broens Gadekøkken street food precinct if you’re in need of fuel.
- Cycle along the river fronts, ducking into the Black Diamond Royal Library, a swim at the Islands Brygge Harbour Baths, taking in the boats from the Inderhavnsbroen bridge and the tourists posing with the very famous and underwhelming Little Mermaid statue, and doing a lap of the pentagonal Kastellet Miliary Fortress.
- Freetown Christiania for a unique look at an alternative way of living – a social experiment of sorts, a suburb completely out on its own since being occupied by hippies in the seventies. There’s a lot of pot, but also their own rules and laws separate from the Danish government, with a very different working and political system and concepts of ownership and currency.
I enjoyed your blog on so many levels.
great post, thank you for all these yummy spots !
Thank you!
This is very helpful! Thank you!