Cappadocia. Google it and up comes incredible images of chimney-like rock formations and colourful hot-air balloons flights over an other-worldly landscape that could have come straight from a fantasy novel. I knew little else about it before we visited last week, but that has changed! This is a bit of a recap of our experiences and recommendations of what to see, do and, of course, where to eat. (This is my first non-recipe post, but I couldn’t help but share the incredible sights of Turkey –  however, the next few days will see a post for Turkish-inspired pide sandwiches with homemade ultra-smooth hummus appear here, so bear with me!)

A little bit of history: the rock formations themselves were caused by volcanic eruptions depositing ash (which then solidified into soft rock), followed by millions of years of natural wind and water erosion, but part of the attraction for locals and tourists alike is the astounding history of ancient civilisations that made the area their home, carving out dwellings from the cliff faces. From 1800BC through to the present day, the region has housed the Hittite Empire in the Bronze Age, Greeks and Persions, allied with the Roman Empire in the time of Pompey and Caesar, been a refugee for Christians fleeing Rome in the 4th century AD, and over time became part of the Ottoman Empire and now modern Turkey.

My alarm went off at 4am – thankfully not as brutal as normal thanks to leftover jet-lag. All over town nameless white vans whisked hundreds of tourists off in different directions to balloon lift-off sites: flat patches of land scattered amongst rock formations, valleys, and grape-growing farmed areas. The tar-sealed main road quickly gave way to smaller gravel paths and, later, barely- carved tracks through tussocked ground, while partially inflated hot-air balloons lay like sleeping giants in the early morning light. My fears that we would miss the sunrise proved unfounded: great roars of flame quickly heated the air inside our blue-and-white striped balloon, we piled into the wicker basket, and gradually, so gently it was difficult to pinpoint the exact moment it happened, we lifted off. Our ascent wasn’t swift – we hovered a while, brushing past the tops of trees to wait for a gap in the steady traffic of balloons passing by above us, directed only by the wind.

A few bursts of flame by the pilot and we rose higher, at the same pace as the hills emerged in front of us – but never quite close enough to unnerve. Then: the top. Ahead stretched an epic landscape – pale fairy chimneys and cave houses, valleys and rounded cliffs of rock merged at the horizon with purple blue morning sky, dotted with hundreds of vibrant balloons. Some floated close to the ground, while others bobbed high enough to be photographed alongside the moon, but all moved in unison with the breeze. And behind came the sun – a pinpoint of light on the edge of the land quickly grew into a semi-circle, then a full round of bright light, framing balloons further back as black tear drops on a yellow-red sky.

Our flight wasn’t level – we descended through valleys, low enough to reach out and touch the stone beside, and flew high above the other balloons, then back down: our hour and a half in the air had passed, and we were searching for a landing spot. This was more difficult that I had imagined – no ability to steer meant the pilot communicated by radio with his team, informing them where they should be to meet the balloon. The braced landing position on our safety card was not needed – a rope thrown down from the balloon was caught, we were towed along like a colossal ship to the truck trailer, and gently bumped down, straight onto the trailer itself. No crash landings here. Quick work was made of deflating the balloon, and the traditional celebrations were held – 630am champagne, cake and a certificate presentation. Probably the most memorable mornings of my life thus far.

Our balloon pilot, Serkan Turgut of Kapadokya Balloons, was also phenomenal – would highly recommend. It is also advised to book for the first morning that you are in Cappadocia, so that in the unlikely event of bad weather you still have another opportunity the next day.

Though magical when viewed from above, the rock formations are just as fascinating when seen from the ground. There are many walking trails available through the Cappadocia region – none are particularly challenging, so bring your camera along and take the opportunity to explore the valleys up close. They are also much quieter than Goreme or the various museums – many tourists won’t bother with the hike so you are unlikely to see a single other traveller.

Start with the Goreme Open Air Museum: though the most touristy of the lot and you might find it difficult to take a photo without another snap-happy foreigner appearing on the screen, it gives you access to numerous old Christian churches dug out from the soft rock more than 1000 years ago. Ancient biblical frescos cover the walls and ceilings, the colour faded with time but still incredibly recognisable. Other rooms would have served as bedrooms, while another held a long stone table that would have seated 50 people. It is so far removed from 21st century life that it is difficult to imagine people living here – whole generations came and went, and yet we know so little about them other than the place they made their home.

The area of fairy chimneys, so named because of the distinctive shape formed over thousands of years by the different layers of rock, was another location of ancient homes. Three-storied houses dug out from the towers of rock dot the dry landscape – these you have free reign to explore, so long as you can find a route to climb in.

The Love Valley (or Honey Valley): one that first we dipped into in our hot-air balloon and returned later that day for a walk. Aptly named thanks to the phallic-shaped rock formations.

The Red Valley (Kizilcukur): trek through caves, tunnels and small valleys surrounded by green wilderness, and view the fairy chimneys, peaks, pigeon holes (used as messengers) and ancient homes built into the cliff faces.

Ihlara Valley: steep reddish cliffs tower above the valley, with the swiftly running Melendiz stream surrounded by lush greenery flowing through. Follow paths by the stream and enjoy the quiet and the warmth, the beds of wild flowers and poppies. Up the sides of the cliffs are old cave houses and Byzantine cave chapels, the front walls destroyed by time to expose open rooms with storage cubby holes covering the rear walls.

To eat: 

• Top Deck Cave Restaurant: our favourite meal in Cappadocia by a long shot. A family run cave restaurant, Top Deck offers top-notch Turkish home cooking in traditional environment. Meze plate starters and fresh bread were followed by cigar borek, a Turkish fried pastry stuffed with spiced lamb and served with yoghurt, while the four slow cooked mains were all delicious. Finish with a plate of bakava and ice-cream. You will need to book in advance, however – this place is sought after!
• Nazar Borek: a small cafe perfect for a light lunch on a hot day – sit outside under the trees and devour plates of gozleme, a Turkish dish of thin bread dough folded and cooked around a filling of spinach and cheese, spiced mince or even chocolate as dessert (most similar to a Mexican quesadilla), and Borek, a stuffed pastry similar to a Greek spanokopita. The sweet apple and cinnamon borek is worth a try.
• Dibek: another cave restaurant with traditional seating on low settees and cushions. The place to go to try testi kebab (pottery kebab), where a chicken or beef curry-like dish is slow cooked in a sealed pottery jug over a fire for 2-3 hours, then cracked open at the table and poured straight onto the plate.

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