The Commons
21 Hurstmere Road
Takapuna, Auckland
Hours: Commons Bistro open 6:30pm – late Thursday to Saturday. Garden & Bar open 12pm-late 7 days. 

A very, very good surprise. Although The Commons has been open in Takapuna for a couple of years, I have managed to live 5km away without ever paying it a visit – friends had a bad experience a few years back, it was viewed (at least in my mind) as a bit of a flash burger-oriented bar space to go for drinks, and perhaps a little pricy for my student budget. An error of judgement, I now know – and my only regret is not visiting sooner.

Now one of the longer standing restaurants in the up-and-coming eating area of central Takapuna, surrounded by the likes of Josh Emmett’s Madam Woo, Bird on Wire, Zomer, Mexico, and Takapuna Beach Cafe, The Commons has two sections: the outdoor, heated ‘Garden’ and downstairs bar area, as well as the more subdued Bistro area upstairs. The latter was where we ate – a spacious, relaxed ambience created by high timber ceilings, floor-to-ceiling views over the Gardens bar area, and uncrowded seating – no bumping elbows with your neighbours here, unlike many eateries.

The evening we dined was one of the first days of The Common’s new spring menu, which showcases some of New Zealand’s best spring produce –  new season peas, asparagus, zucchini flowers and spring smoked lamb all make an appearance. Divided into ‘to snack’, ‘shared beginnings’, ‘large plates’ and ‘to share’, the menu is wide ranging and creative, with an Italian slant – start with smoked salmon tartare Tuscan style with charred ciabatta ($14), or porcini anancini with heirloom tomato, gremolata & parmesan ($14). Shared beginnings are plates – spring vegetable mezze, kitchen charcuteries, or raw fish, all with accompaniments. Large plates are main size, though if in a smaller group you could share – the pig belly with beer, fennel, grape & charred carrot ($34) and the wholemeal gnocchi with ricotta, zucchini flower & heritage tomato ($32) were particularly tempting. Daily primal cattle cuts are also offered, as are the larger Savannah dry aged prime rib (700g- $79) and slow roasted lamb shoulder (800g- $75). Vegetables come as sides, and are worth ordering – charred spears of asparagus come with a golden crumb topping, new potatoes are simply dressed with sea salt & lemon chive, while heirloom tomatoes are highlighted by sesame & basil (all $8).

We began with the eggplant caviar – smoky and babaganoush-like with deep eggplant flavour, basil and toasted sesame, it was a good start. The crisp olive oiled flat-breads it came with were possibly a little too crisp, flat and oily, however – maybe a house-made toasted foccacia would have been a better fit. Roasted scallops came next – large and perfectly golden, they were accompanied by a herby rosemary & garlic butter that I could have smeared on anything, anytime and been happy.

The day boat fish sounded too good to bypass: served with charred squid (the tenderest we had ever experienced, thanks to a kiwifruit marinade), heirloom tomato salsa, avocado puree and chorizo oil. The lighter flavours put the spotlight on the fresh, crispy edged fish, and it was one of our favourite dishes, though I still have qualms about the use of avocado puree in dishes, as it continues to seem to lack the flavour of the real thing.

Rich, charred-edged chunks of King salmon were artfully arranged with asparagus, acidic pink grapefruit, and a mint emulsion – though a complete contrast to the softer, delicate flavours of the former fish plate, the salmon and grapefruit just seemed to work, and the charred, wrinkly asparagus pulled it all together.

Finally, the smoked lamb was like spring on a plate – tender and pink, and served with fresh broad beans, peas and grilled zucchini on a base of a creamy garlic emulsion.

Dessert was not even a question – I had to try the malt icecream with soft chocolate, honeycomb and oat crumble. For a dark chocolate person, this was out of the ordinary. A scoop of dark, rich and chocolately as chocolate gets mousse was covered with a light, foamy malt ice cream and sweet, crisp textures of honeycomb, almost cornflake-like to look at. The photos and initial appearance do not do justice to the chocolate explosion it is – I would go back just to eat it again.

Service was very attentive and friendly, if a little disjointed, and dishes arrived quickly without being on top of each other.

The Commons seems to cover a gaping hole in North Shore dining – the upmarket bistro model, serving sophisticated, modern seasonal food – slightly less fine-dining than The Engine Room, yet more so than Mexico. The sort of place you could take your parents, a date, or just have a satisfying dinner out.  I can’t wait to try the summer menu.

Rating: 8/10
Don’t miss: the chocolate malt dessert.
Do: book ahead, and ask for a table overlooking the Gardens
Features: takes bookings, bistro area and menu + bar area and menu

* We dined courtesy of The Commons, but all thoughts, ideas and opinions are my own.

The post The Commons: Review appeared first on The Brick Kitchen.