I now understand why people feel compelled to return to Tokyo again and again. It’s not a place you visit once and tick off some travel bucket list, like you might with the balloons of Cappadocia or the hike to Macchu Picchu, or a city that you can explore in a few days and feel satisfied that you’ve seen the highlights. It’s vast and crazy and orderly and peaceful all at once: skyscrapers and neon lights meet parks full of runners and manicured gardens, small local cafes fit in with sprawling luxury malls, systematic vending machine restaurant ordering and slick subway queues sit alongside the chaotic, colourful crowds of Harajuku. And then there’s the food. It seems (as an outsider) to be a culture always striving for absolute excellence, whether that be in the form of the freshest sashimi and the perfect bowl of ramen or a straight-out-of-Paris crisp, flaky pain au chocolat and punnets of flawless, identically shaped strawberries. Restaurants do one thing perfectly – udon or soba, tempura or yakitori. This clearly extends outside food too – knives, cars, bonsai, toilets! – and in the past, training to be a geisha, the ‘perfect female’.

There has both been so much already written about and photographed of Tokyo, and simultaneously a near infinite amount to explore, that this is far from a comprehensive guide. It’s simply a collection of memories from a wonderful week, from my favourite flat whites to steaming bowls of ramen, where to find gorgeous sushi on a budget and the best truffle pasta I’ve ever eaten (plus a few ideas for when you’re not stuffing yourself). There are no high end eateries on this list as this was still a student budget trip – I’ll be back again for those!

Some practicalities to start:

• We visited in early November, when the weather was perfect for walking everywhere and the vivid reds and oranges of fall were out in full force. Not too cold, not too hot.
• I bought a SIM card online the day before to pick up at the airport on arrival which worked perfectly and gave me 7GB for our 3 weeks in Japan, though there are different sizes (I bought a Mobal card) – definitely worthwhile, even just for google maps purposes.
• We stayed near Yoyogi Park, just north of Shibuya – an up and coming area of cool restaurants and cafes a short walk away from the madness of both Shibuya and Shinjuku while feeling much more local. I would definitely stay there again, though Nakameguro also came highly recommended.
• And finally, be aware of the fact that there are different social norms and etiquette to respect when you’re there that you might not be used to – read up a little. Some of the most obvious are not to eat while walking, not to talk on the phone in public or on the subway, line up orderly when everyone else is, wait for and only cross at the crossings, always take your shoes off at the door and don’t hang around after you’re finished eating at restaurants when there are queues for the seat (this especially goes for ramen – it’s generally considered fast food).

Caffeinate

• Coffee Supreme: one of my favourites back home, Wellington’s Coffee Supreme is now also my favourite in Tokyo for a perfect flat white. Pop into Camelback next door for an upmarket breakfast egg sandwich while you’re here.
• Path: quite possible the best pain au chocolat I’ve ever eaten came courtesy of Path, alongside deep caramel caneles, flaky cubed scones and rustic chestnut tarts. They serve drip coffee, no espresso, as well as a full all-day menu.
• The Roastery By Nozy: tucked into a vintage and boutique shopping strip between Shibuya and Harajuku, the Roastery not only serves coffee but also a creamy and intense espresso soft serve for your afternoon pick-me-up.
• About Life Coffee Brewers: a hole in the wall outfit in Shibuya serving up great takeaway.
• Fuglen: coffee and freshly baked cinnamon buns by day and cocktails by night.
• Cibi: another Melbourne transplant by Japanese couple Zenta and Meg Tanaka, Cibi is a cafe and design concept store serving up Japanese style breakfast, freshly baked cakes and coffee in a light warehouse space. Don’t be put off by the location – it’s off the tourist track in old-school Sendagi which is worth a wander in itself.
• Others that I didn’t quite make it to: Switch coffee, Omibus coffee, Allpress Tokyo, Koffee Mameya.

Sweet Tooth

• Gomaya Kuki: tucked into a Harajuku side-street is the best sesame ice cream I’ve ever had – choose from six different types (salted black sesame was a favourite) then DIY toppings of sesame oil and seeds.
• Fluffy ricotta hotcakes at Bill’s: the instagram famous hotcakes are instagram famous for reason – and, having eaten the Sydney and Tokyo versions a few weeks apart, the Tokyo version was fluffier, lighter and altogether better. Completely worth it for a birthday breakfast in Tokyo at this classic Australian cafe.
• Taiyaki Wakaba: for a classic Teriyaki in Shinjuku, this tiny store has been open since 1953 serving up fluffy fish-shape waffle cakes stuffed with red bean paste. Chefs make taiyaki in cast iron grills over coals while locals queue out the door to buy boxes at a time.
• Pierre Herme Aoyama: Tokyo’s culture of perfection lends itself well to French patisserie, and Pierre Herme’s Aoyama outpost encapsulates this. Completely worth a morning tea stop off for the caramelised hazelnut mille feuille- maybe after browsing the Saturday morning Aoyama farmer’s market next door.
• Suzukien Asakusa: if you’re a matcha person (can’t say that I am), then Suzukien offers 7 different strengths of matcha ice cream, as well as hojicha and black sesame.
• Others I didn’t quite make it to (check the hours of these as they are only open a few days a week): Harrits coffee & donuts, Sunday Bakeshop

Eat

• Sushi No Midori: very high quality mid-budget sushi with a number of locations (plates of tuna nigiri at approximately $40 pp) but it comes at the cost of a queue. Get there early for lunch to get a ticket and wait on the benches outside till you’re called.
• Uogashi Nihon-Ichi: a tiny standing sushi bar with room for about 10 around the counter in Shinjuku, perfect for a quick lunch on the go. Point to the mixed plate you’d like and the chefs serve it straight up in front of you. Very reasonably priced and some of the best sushi I had.
• Ohitsuzen Tanbo: beautiful rice sets with your choice of topping – think grilled salmon and roe, unagi or seared tuna on perfectly steamed rice, served up with sides of miso, wasabi, yam and a pot of roasted rice tea for you to DIY your meal. Prepare for the possibility of a line, or go early – but one of our favourite meals in Tokyo.
• Tsuta: a Michelin starred ramen bowl, complete with homemade noodles (flour from France and Hokkaido, soda ash from inner Mongolia), triple broth (whole chicken, clam and kelp, and dry fish), three different types of premium soy sauce, beef, porcini mushrooms, black truffle oil, balsamic truffle cream, morel and porcini cream sauce, fig compote and roasted Iberico pork. Insane. Get there around 8am to grab yourself a time to come back later (12 or 1pm), then expect to wait another half an hour when you return. We chose the shoyu ramen with everything. So worth it.
• Kikanbo: one of my favourite bowls of ramen from the trip – rich and spicy miso ramen topped with chunks of carmalised pork (chashu) and lots of garlic oil. It’s a food-coma inducing meal. You’ll get asked what level of spice you’d like – I went regular on both, and it was very manageable.
• Tensuke: a cheap and cheerful hole in the wall tempura outlet seating about 8 – get the tempura set and start with the crispy outside, gooey-centred tempura egg on rice, and follow up with a series of different vegetable and seafood tempura all made directly in front of you and delivered straight to your plate.
• OUT: an Australian run 13 seat restaurant serving up one dish only – a perfectly executed bowl of truffle pasta. Who knew a bowl of housemade fettuccine with liberal parmesan, olive oil and truffle could be this good. Start with a glass of red wine or bubbles and finish with the truffle chocolate truffles for dessert.
• Afuri: a much lighter ramen than many of the others we tried, Afuri is famous for their use of yuzu in their chicken and dashi broth. Head to their Nakameguro outlet for lunch before exploring the area (see below) .
• Udon Shin: it’s busy and touristy but with good reason – the udon here is chewy and bouncy and slippery and served in all manner of ways. Try the ultimate comfort food hot soy sauce udon with butter, pepper and soft boiled egg, the carabonara style bowl with bacon and parmesan, or go more traditional with cold udon, dipping sauce and piles of tempura.
• Anda Gyoza: if you’re staying in the area, this is a perfect local spot when you can’t be bothered to venture far to eat. Their gyoza are Taiwanese and look more like tortellini with a thick and nutty roasted oat wrapper and fillings like chicken and coriander, pork and daikon. Make sure to order the mapo tofu too – spicy and rich and perfect with rice.
• Ahiru Store: a tiny natural wine bar in Shibuya that delivers on atmosphere, nibbles and desserts – we devoured the tarte tatin and chocolate ganache cake.
• Sushi Zanmai: for cheap, fast, reasonable quality sushi that you won’t usually need to queue for (a number of locations).
• A few of the many many others on my list I didn’t make it to: Seirinkan or Pizza Studio Tamaki for allegedly the best pizza around, ramen at Mensho, Kiraku and Ramen Nagi, Obana for unagi and Tamawarai for soba

Do

• Shibuya: shop, eat, peer down at the crossing scramble (pop up to the top of Magnet by Shibuya 109 for a bird’s eye view at peak hour). Head up towards The Roastery by Nozy for an afternoon coffee softserve – it’s on a prime street for vintage, boutiques and people watching before hitting Harajuku in the evening. Another street worth exploring is the one that Coffee Supreme is located on.

• Ebisu and Nakameguro: head to Daikanyama T-site for book-shop heaven (there’s English and Japanese), wander down the canal (especially if it’s spring blossom or fall colours season), drink lots of coffee at Omibus and head to Afuri Ramen once you’re hungry.

• Ginza: head to Ippodo for high end matcha and sweets, the basement level of Mitsukoshi for food hall heaven, Ginza 6 for designer shops (but more importantly the giant suspended whale, golden architecture and rooftop city view) and Akomeya for boutique food items. Wander around the Imperial Palace if you have time while you’re over this side of the city.

• Shimokitazawa: if you want to vintage shop, this is the neighbourhood to do it.
• Tsukiji Market: the infamous Tokyo fish market has now been split in two – the commercial fish market and tuna auctions shifted to sterile warehouses a few kilometres away, and the bustling (and touristy) exterior street food stalls and eateries remaining in the original location. The latter is still absolutely worth a morning visit for a bowl of some of the freshest sashimi you’ll find (it’s still all sourced from the market). Go here for breakfast before venturing out to Team Lab: Borderless.
• teamLab borderless: a digital art museum you’ve probably already seen on instagram but unlike many things, is 1000x more impressive in reality – think rooms of floating lamps and a floor to ceiling crystal maze, constantly dynamic and changing. Buy tickets in advance.
• Yayoi Kusama Museum: a tiny museum worth it for Yayoi fans, a little off the beaten track but a lovely way to spend a spare hour. Book tickets ahead.
• Aoyama Farmers Market: a bustling, local Saturday morning farmer’s market full of more vegetables than I saw in the rest of the city, fresh wasabi, jars of vibrant pickles, freshly made rice milk, nut butters and bread.
• Senso-ji: the oldest temple in Tokyo, and also the busiest. Visit early if it’s tranquility or empty photographs you want.
• Kappabashi Utenstils St: need a Japanese knife, chopsticks or literally anything else you could possibly want for your kitchen? Here is your place. Tsubaya World is particularly well known for knives.
• Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building Observation Room: a 360° view over the city from 202m up – on a clear day, you can spot Mt Fuji. Unlike the Tokyo Sky Tree, this view is free.
• Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden: in good weather, this is worth an hour or two exploring the greenhouse, watching the reflections in the lakes and lazing on the grass.
• Other museums: the Mori Art Museum and Nezu Museum both came highly recommended but were closed the week I visited.

The post A Tokyo Travel & Food Guide appeared first on The Brick Kitchen.

My first morning in Lisbon was not ideal. I woke up early, ready to be productive; I scrambled up the cobbled, slippery and steep streets up to a cafe straight out of a magazine, Hello Kristof; I plonked myself down on a communal table with the best flat white I’d had in a while and a bowl of thick greek yogurt and homemade granola – and I desperately rushed to finish my thesis, six months in the making. I vowed not to leave the cafe until it was submitted, a goal that was tested when I realised I’d miscalculated and still had another few hundred words to cull, and tested again when my battery read 5%. Luckily the girl next to me with her laptop charger saved the day. I was not going to let editing and re-editing these 15,000 words take over the rest of my time in Lisbon. So, taunted by the sunlight on the teal tiled buildings outside the window and the yellow trams rattling past, I pressed submit. I left that cafe about about 100kg lighter – ready to take on whatever Lisbon had to offer.

Lisbon more than lived up to expectations. It wasn’t until a year or so ago that it was even on my radar, without the force of reputation of Rome, Paris or Barcelona. It is only in recent years that it has undertaken some kind of culinary resurgence – labeled the next “it destination” by every other magazine, the “most underrated dining city”, the “hottest place to visit next” and coupled with glamorous instagram shots of multicoloured tiles, a hilly red roof-ed city overlooking the river, and the classic Australian inspired brunches (you know, the flat whites and acai bowls on asymmetric plates and a marble bench-top). Cue all the travel bloggers (ok, me included). Well, it was justified. It was that night in one of Lisbon’s most talked about cevicherias, a tiny sunlit place known by the huge octopus hanging from the ceiling, seated at the bar next to another freelancer living in Lisbon, greeted with house-made cornbread and seaweed butter, eating the freshest salmon ceviche topped with mango foam. It was the evening trek we made up the hill just to eat warm pastel de nata fresh from the oven at Mantegaria, crisp and flaky and dusted with cinnamon and icing sugar. It was the graffitied and slightly dilapidated sloping streets, where the higher you go the better the view. It was the gem around every corner – the stores trading solely in tinned fish (it’s big business here, and I came home with a bagful of my own), the traditional Portuguese eateries serving up cod and potato, ribs and rice next to more diverse and immigrant driven restaurants, particularly Africa and Asia – a different spectrum of flavour to other European cities.

Below are some of my favourite spots during my week in Lisbon – where to find the darkest chocolate gelato, the back (free) entrances to popular viewpoints, the flaky pastel de nata and fresh seafood. And yes, the flat whites too.

Coffee and Cafes

• Comoba: a modern, plant-filled cafe just around the corner from the hostel I stayed at – the best coffee I found and a gorgeous breakfast and lunch menu.
• Hello Kristof: the aforementioned location where I scrambled to finish my thesis : great coffee, a great place for breakfast or to freelance, great breakfast food if you’re leaning towards something a little healthier – an acai bowl, greek yogurt, and the scrambled eggs on sourdough were met with rave reviews by my neighbours.
• Copenhagen Coffee Lab: if you’re looking for a bit of hygge, a quality coffee and a cardamom bun or avocado on rye, this is your place. They also do breakfast plates with a little bit of everything – perfect for the indecisive. There are 2 or 3 across the city.
• Bettina & Niccolò Corallo: a little pink hued chocolate shop and roastery – sample some housemade chocolate with your espresso, order the halfway to molten brownie if they’re there, and don’t leave without trying their made-to-order dark chocolate sorbet- it’s just dark chocolate, water and a bit of brown sugar. For those who love their chocolate intense.
• The Mill: an Australian owned cafe filled with blue speckled plates and instagrammers, but also a good feed too, and reliable coffee.
• Others that I didn’t get a chance to visit but have heard good things about: Zenith, Bowls & Bar, Fauna & Flora and Talk to Me. All very pretty brunch spots involving coffee.

Sweets, Bakeries and Pastel de Nata

• Manteigaria: known as the best pastel de nata in town, this place was worth seeking out. You can watch the pastry being made and tins being lined by hand, and the turnover is so high you’ll be eating your’s warm from the oven. Try the cinnamon and icing sugar on top, and a take a few for later! Or just drop back past- they’re only a euro each, after all, and open until midnight.
• Pastels de Belem: the main rival of Manteigaria for best pastel de nata. They were a different beast entirely and I’m not sure I could pick a favourite – these were certainly more crisp and flaky, more pastry dominant, and perhaps had a little longer in the oven. You’ll just have to try both! Make a morning trip out to Belem and couple it with a visit to the Jeronimo’s Monastery (get tickets next door at the museum if the line is too long) and a wander past the Belem Tower.
• Landeau chocolate cake at the LX factory: a very famous chocolate cake. Google it. Even the New York Times had a rave. If you’re a chocolate cake person and you’re at the LX market, I’d recommend giving it a try – it’s rich but light and almost mousse like, and comes dusted with cocoa.
• Pastelaria Alcoa and Confeitaria Nacional: the top spots for more traditional Portuguese baked goods (a little warning – you may feel a little sugar overloaded by the end of your visit).
• Mu – gelato italiano: so so good. By far the best gelato I had in Lisbon. Caramelised banana and dark chocolate? Salted pistachio? It almost rivalled Italy. I also heard great things about Nannarella Gelateria but didn’t quite manage to try it out. Gelados Santini, though ubiquitous, was nowhere near as good (though if you must, get the coconut).

Lunch and Dinner

• A Cevechieria: some of the best ceviche I’ve had. Go early as it’s tiny and there’ll be a queue, though there is some outside space to wait with a drink if it’s a nice evening. Identifiable by the octopus hanging from the ceiling. The pisco sours are also A++
• Ramiro: launched into superstardom and insane wait times by it’s feature on Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations. So yes, it’s touristville, packed and probably a little overpriced- but the seafood was **incredible**. So worth it. Tiger prawns as big as my forearm, clams swimming in a fragrant white wine and coriander sauce, garlic shrimp sizzling straight in the pan accompanied by piles of buttered white bread. If you’re up for it, get the steak sandwich for dessert – it brings new meaning to surf and turf. Get a reservation (you can before 730pm!) or go very early.
• Taberna da rua das flores: tiny tables are crammed into this narrow space in the city centre, where the lunch menu is scrawled outside on a blackboard and no reservations are taken. Go for lunch for a more traditional Portuguese meal, or for dinner for a seasonal menu of more creative dishes, still using Portuguese ingredients. Expect to wait, or visit off-peak time.
• Sol e pesca: a tiny rod and net adorned bar born out of a fishing shop down by the waterfront, almost solely selling canned seafood – which, being in Portugal, is probably the best in the world. It’s a good chance to test out what fish you might like to bring home – sardines, tuna, cod, mackerel, octopus, eel.. Get a few drinks and sit outside on a warm evening.
• Time Out Food Court: I’m sure you’ve already heard all about this – I thought it was great for a quick lunch or dinner with the myriad of different stalls (and thus also great if you have a group of people with different tastes as you can get anything from tuna tartare to traditional Portuguese rice to pad thai to burgers), but it wouldn’t make top of the list for me. It’s fairly crowded, pricy and touristy. Manteigaria and Bettina and Niccolo Coralli are also located here in mini-form if you didn’t get a chance to visit, but I’d highly recommend dropping past their original stores. However, the morning produce market IS worth a stop by before the crowds arrive.
• Other places I didn’t get to but came highly recommended:
  • Cantinho do Aziz: a casual and acclaimed Mozambican restaurant – think lamb ribs, coconut crab curry and samosas.
  • Pistola y Corazon Taqueria: a casual Mexican taco stop with rave reviews.

To see and shop:

• Conserveira de Lisboa and Loja da Conservas: walls of hundreds and hundreds of brightly hued tins of fish. The former was established in 1930 and maintains the traditional shop style and countertops. At a few dollars each, they make the perfect memento.
• Prada Mercearia: a turqoise painted specialty grocer with a particularly photo friendly wall of jarred dry goods. Pick up some bread, vegetables and a few cans of fish, or sit with the newspaper and a coffee.
• Rua Augusta Arch: towering over the main pedestrian shopping strip one way and the plaza and the river the other, you can head up to the top of the arch for a unique view over the city. It was built to commemorate the reconstruction of the city following the devastating earthquake of 1755.
• Explore the different neighbourhoods: the winding steps of Alfama with the Tues/Sat flea market, tiny homes and artisan shops and the view from Portas Do Sol; the backstreets of Barrio Alto with its night life and restaurants spilling onto the pavement (make sure to walk up Ascensor Da Bica and to the Santa Caterina Miradoura); peer down Ascensor da Gloria and wander past the towering front of Rossio station; up to the Castelo de Sao Jorge, built by the Moors in the 11th century.
• Sintra: (in my opinion) worth a day trip, but only if you have more than 3 days in Lisbon itself. Otherwise, I’d stick to Lisbon. All I can say is GO EARLY (as in, get there at or before opening time) and buy tickets online ahead to avoid the crowds. My favourites were Pena Palace and Quinta da Regeilara.
• Spend a morning in Belem: wander through the Jeronimos Monastery (get a ticket from the museum next door if there is a line), walk past the Tower of Belem and tuck into morning tea at Pastels de Belem. Wander back towards Lisbon via the LX factory for window shopping, coffee at Wish Concept Store or browsing the floor to ceiling lined bookstore.

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I umm-ed and ahh-ed over whether to write this post – unsure what I could add to the countless travel guide narratives on the web, to the expert advice of locals, to the city guides published by magazines. I eventually decided that really this is as much for my memory banks as for anyone else, and it’s what I would send to any friend who asked for tips, or anyone on instagram who messaged me during the trip.  It’s the lessons I learnt during a few sweet and sweaty summer days in July on a first time visit to Rome, and the result of many hours of trip research and planning (read: instagram-stalking restaurants). This is a 3 day highlight reel of a 4 day trip: my favourite bits. 

It’s also difficult in a city like Rome not to feel like you’re checking things off some ordained list that each visitor is instructed to follow on arrival. Maybe some would just say to avoid those sites, but it’s not for no reason that people go to wonder at the opulence of the Vatican, or gaze over the thousands of years of history on show at the Roman Forum. They’re incredible. I just try to balance them with that wonderful small coffee shop beforehand, or a walk around a less touristy neighbourhood, or go for a morning jog or walk before everyone and their camera is out on the streets. Plan unplanned time. 

Day 1

I’m an early riser – my jet lagged family is not. So I jog through Travestere, sleepy streets still full of rubbish from the night before, and up the many steps to Park Villa Doria Pamphili. It’s overgrown and dilapidated but full of gravel paths, broken statues, mossy fountains and locals out exercising before the heat of the day hits.

Back in Campo de Fiori, we end up following our noses around the corner to Roscioli Pasticceria. Vanilla-bean-flecked creme patisserie filled cornetti (the softer, sweeter cousin of the croissant), and flaky-crisp sfogliatelle (my new favourite pastry) alongside a strong cappuccino or double espresso. It’s so good, half the coffee shops and bakeries I had on my list languish forgotten – I learn that sometimes becoming a regular somewhere like this, trying a different pastry each morning, means more than dragging my family around Rome in the heat. 

Appropriately fuelled, we wander through the centre, orientating ourselves to the Spanish Steps, down past the Trevi Fountain, coins thrown over shoulders, through the Pantheon. In a nearby piazza, we find Sant’ Eustachio Il Caffè and order a café al granita con panna at the bar – icy espresso infused granita sandwiched with whipped cream, topped off with a wafer biscuit. (My brother recognises the place as being on a Kardashian’s instagram recently – regardless, it’s worth it). 

We’ve booked Sunday lunch at Tavernaccia da Bruno and I make everyone wait a second while I take a quick iphone photograph of the spread. Plates of wood-fired, golden-crusted lasagne, oozing mozzarella and sauce. Tender eggplant parmigiana. Burrata with grassy olive oil and sun-dried tomatoes, broken open to reveal that creamy centre. Roman chicory greens, sweet figs with pancetta. One of my favourite meals in Rome, hands down. 

Sleepily walking off that lunch, we wander up through quiet Trastevere streets to the Janiculum Terrace and take in the views over the city. Down the hill towards Castel Sant-Angelo – free on the first Sunday of the month, for a look at the path made for the pope to escape from the Vatican, and a direct view of St Peter’s Basilica. 

Trapizzino is a favourite quick dinner – there are a few dispersed over the city serving up hot, crispy edged pizza pockets stuffed full of traditional Roman mains: herby green sauce and tongue (don’t knock it till you’ve tried it), creamy burrata and fried summer zucchini, chicken and bell peppers. Try the suppli too – gooey fried balls of rich risotto filling, maybe with mozzarella and ragu sauce (another great place for this in the centre is Supplizio). Fior di Luna for scoops of pistachio and hazelnut gelato. 

Day 2

Today we hit the Vatican – via a skip the line tour that doesn’t really seem to skip much of the line at all, but it’s worth it to crane your neck up at Michelangelo’s Sistene Chapel and the towering gilded domes of St Peter’s Basilica. Really it’s the wealth and the extravagance of it all that is overwhelming – it would take weeks to really see everything in the museums and a few hours in that thick wave of humanity, only interspersed by colourful tour guide flags, was more than enough. 

Everyone’s reaching the end of their tether by the time we escape for lunch, so it’s a quick stop for much needed caffeine at Pergamino nearby before rallying to head to Bonci Pizzarium. It’s Gabriele Bonci’s takeout serving pizza al taglio (by the slice), and it irrevocably alters my pizza standards: crispy and air-pocketed crust topped with creamy dollops of burrata cut by rocket and anchovies; a thick spread of ricotta interspersed with spicy njuda; crispy slices of potato topped with rich and meaty ragu. Well worth the hype (but go off peak lunch hours if you can). 

We head back via Piazza del Popola and the Villa Borghese Gardens – you could visit the galleries if that’s your thing, but they are closed on Mondays. Dinner is a booking at Da Cesare, an easy tram ride out of the city centre to the best pasta of the trip. It starts with silky eggplant croquettes and zucchini flowers stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies, and moves onto the Roman staples –  the simplicity of cacio e pepe, wide spinach ravioli coated in l’armatriciana, pasta all gricia – spaghetti draped in creamy pecorino and black pepper with salty, fatty chunks of guanciale (pork).  We roll out on a dessert of tiramisu, berry panacotta and crostata. My brothers are up for round two so we visit Otaleg before crashing (sour cherry and dark chocolate, if you’re wondering). 

Day 3

I’ve already tried and failed to visit the apparently 200-year-old Pasticceria Boccione in the Jewish Ghetto (it was closed), but this morning we make it. An unmarked doorway, burnt apricot paint peeling, recognisable only by the smells wafting from within and that simple glass case lined with the day’s offerings- rich twisted pizza e braica, enriched brioche-like dough stuffed with dried fruit and nuts, and the ricotta crostatas (more like a pie). The latter was what we were here for – a glorious double crust of pastry filled to the brim with ricotta and laced with either wild cherry or dark chocolate chunks (visciole or cioccolato). (Also – you pay by weight, about 6 euro for a huge slice, and they sell out, so drop by in the morning). We sat on a bench in the square and devoured them. 

A tour of the Colosseum and the Roman Forum was one of the highlights of the trip – reaching back into the depth of my brain for that high school classics knowledge. Afterwards, a meander up towards Monti – a vibrant neighbourhood of small boutiques and eateries where I could quite happily have spent the whole afternoon. If you are spending time in this area, Green & Go is a great place for a throw together chopped salad if you need a break from pasta (this wasn’t the case for my brothers, who chose PastaChef Monti), and I have also heard good things about Trattoria Monti. For pastries, try the maritozzi at Regoli Pasticceria. 

A final lunch was back at our old favourite – Antico Forno Roscioli. More pizza al taglio, this time with grilled peppers and creamy burrata, fresh basil and cherry tomatoes. We grab some of the krantz cake for the train and end up wishing we bought double – sweet bread, plaited with almonds and raisins. It tastes even better than it looks. 

Gelato favourites:
Fior di Luna, Fatamorgana, Gelateria dei Gracchi, Otaleg, Gelateria del Teatro. 

Other recommendations if you have more time:

• Seu Pizza Illuminati: high on the list but didn’t quite make it here, but have heard incredible things – worth a booking. 
• Campo de Fiori market : this was right next to our airbnb so I ended up wandering through at various times. It’s small but full of wonderful produce – we stocked up on breakfast fruit – and Forno Campo de Fiori is extremely highly spoken of (particularly the pizza bianca)
• Testacchio Market (and visit Mordi & Vai)
• Coffee: Barnum Cafe, Faro – Luminaries of Coffee, La Case del Caffe Tazza D’oro, Sciascia Caffe

For more food recommendations and advice, I would highly recommend following Katie Parla, Elizabeth Minchilli and checking out the Eater Guide to Rome. 

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Barcelona Food & Wander Guide – a brief snapshot of our favourite tapas bars and third wave coffee shops with tips and tricks to maximise your sightseeing time. 

Where do I start with Barcelona? It was vibrant, splashed with golden light and warm colours. Loud, with music and conversation spilling out of doorways and bars. It’s a place where you are constantly looking up –  up to the nature-inspired, expansive curved lines of Gaudi’s architecture, up the narrow streets with overhanging balcony gardens and laundry lines. A photograph around every corner. Coffee nearing Melbourne standards at Satan’s, and too many tapas places to even make a dent on the list (and I’m now starting to understand the fuss about proper fresh anchovies and sardines). 

Yes, it has a reputation as being completely overrun by tourists (at least the old quarter), and no, I do not speak Catalan and yes, I visited at probably one of the busiest times of year (late June). I still loved it. I think the key is to plan ahead a little. Seek out small coffee shops for respite from the crowds, avoid Las Ramblas if at all possible, visit El Gotic and the major Gaudi sites in the early morning or late evening, book everything in advance to avoid queues, and explore different neighbourhoods – El Born, Poble Sec, Gracia and Eixample.  We stayed in an airbnb on the far edge of El Born near Parc de la Cuitadella, which was perfect for walking everywhere and far enough from the crowds of the central historical area not to be hit by a selfie stick every few metres. 

I also owe a big thank you to everyone who gave me recommendations – they were absolutely invaluable and I hope I did them some justice! Below are some of my favourites that we visited – a brief snapshot of our favourite tapas bars and third wave coffee shops with tips and tricks to maximise your sightseeing time.

Coffee

• Satans Coffee Co: one of the original 3rd wave coffee shops in Barcelona, Satan’s has 2 locations –  one in El Gotic and the other in Eixample. The former makes a perfect morning pitstop from the crowds for a flat white – pair it with the Japanese breakfast or the cool and creamy greek yogurt with green plaintains, caramelised peanuts and coconut. 
• Black Remedy: a second specialty coffee option in El Gothic, Black Remedy is perfect for freelancers with its free wifi, plentiful tables and industrial feel. 
• Onna Coffee: walk back from Park Guell, or up from Casa Mila, via Onna in Gracia for a morning flat white or cold brew to power you through a day of Gaudi sightseeing.
• Nomad Coffee: a specialty coffee lab in El Born, perfect for a quick cup to fuel a day of sightseeing.
• Though I did not get to them on this trip, if you are looking for more of a brunch experience, many recommended the Australian-owned Caravelle and Federal Cafe. Also on the list was Brunch & Cake and Flax & Kale (the latter particularly useful for those who are vegan or with food intolerances). 

Pastries / Sweets:

• Baluard Bakery: apparently some of the best bread you can find in Barcelona, Baluard has a number of outfits full of different varieties of sourdough, filled rolls, gorgeous pizza by the slice (ours was topped spinach, prosciutto and pinenuts), seasonal fruit tarts or ensaimada – a spiral pastry from Mallorca like a cross between a croissant and a yeasted brioche.  It’s a perfect stop for a a quick lunch to either take to the beach from Barceloneta, or up in Example mid Gaudi exploring. 
• Hofmann Pasticeria: tucked down an alleyway in El Born, Hofmann produces the best stuffed croissants I’ve ever tried, flaky and oozing with mascarpone, or raspberry compote and cheesecake cream. Take them to the nearby square to sit on a bench and people-watch (and try not to return for more!). 
• Demasie: walking past this window display is an exercise in self-restraint – full of trays and trays of freshly baked scrolls of every description, from the traditional cinnamon to nutella and tiramisu. Eat warm and with your hands. 
• Xurreria Laietana: seeing as churros originated in Spain, I attempted to find the best in the area. We tried a few but the top by far was this tiny storefront in El Gotic serving up freshly fried thin churros and thicker porras along with a mug of decadent, custard-y hot chocolate for dipping. Check their opening hours because they close early afternoon and then shut early evening. 
• Gelaaati di marco: the number of gelato offerings in Barcelona surprised me (I was ready to wait for Italy!) but I couldn’t bypass this place – their award winning dark chocolate, rum and passionfruit was well worth a scoop on a sweltering evening. 

To eat

• La Boqueria: though this market may be renowned for its colourful towers of fruit juices and hanging displays of iberica ham, go early for breakfast before the tourist rush descends and grab a seat at Pinotxo Bar. Start with a plate of giant chickpeas fried with pork and move onto whatever special they have on offer that day – maybe octopus ceviche, sweet smoked sardines in balsamic and olive oil, or baby squid. Don’t leave without trying the xuxo pastries – like a light flaky fried croissant stuffed with creme patisserie. We ended up ordering a second. If you love markets, also check out the Santa Caterina market nearby. 
• La Xampanyeria: expect to stand three people deep against a bar in this buzzing, tiny space for small plates of meats, cheeses while glasses of cheap house cava appear in front of you. Don’t forget the hot burgers, made and toasted in front of you – I can thoroughly recommend the jamon & melty camembert combination.
• Bar del Pla: a small bar serving up some of the best bites in El Gotic. Either come early, be prepared to stand or reserve a table. Try the patatas braves – thick cut, crispy-edged and draped in both a smoky, spicy tomato sauce and a creamy, garlic aioli-like dressing.
• El Xampanyet: brimming with a mix of tourists and locals, but still more than worth braving the crowds. Either stand at a bar for the smaller tapas, or wait for a table to try the bigger plates. Would thoroughly recommend the chorizo & potato omelette, the seared steak with fried padron peppers, and the chickpeas with vegetables. 
• La Cova Fumada: if you’re down in Barceloneta and want to try seafood near the beach, this is for you. No frills, just plates of glistening grilled sardines with oil and herbs, squid and whatever else is fresh off the boats on the day. Open for lunch only – check the hours. 
• Quimet y Quimet: one of Barcelona’s most iconic tapas bars, lined floor to ceiling with colourful preserves and wines. It specialises in montaditos – small open faced, crunchy sandwiches with crazy delicious toppings – think tangy yogurt, thick folds of smoked salmon and gooey truffled honey (trust me, it’s a must). Pair with a glass or two or vermouth, spicy and syrupy. Quimet was featured by Anthony Bourdain and it might feel more than a little tourist jammed, but there is usually room to squeeze in at the bar and you’ll be served quickly. Also a great reason to wander the lovely streets of El Poble Sec, perhaps on the way back from an afternoon exploring Montjuic. 
• La Plata: a tiny vermouth and wine bar with limited seating, stop for a drink and some of the best fried anchovies in town. 

To see amidst the eating! 

• El Gotic: the historical centre of the city, all narrow streets draped with laundry and tourists wielding cameras. Wander around in the early morning, perhaps on your way to La Boqueria, avoid Las Ramblas if at all possible, and maybe try a free walking tour (we did a Runner Bean tour) to learn a little about the history of the area. 
• Everything Gaudi: the key here is to book ahead and choose your times and what you want to see carefully. Get to Park Guell for an early morning or evening visit, and sit in the gardens with a picnic before wandering back down the hill through Gracia for gorgeous tree-lined streets, small shops and galleries  (maybe with a visit to Onna Cafe on the way). Head back to Eixample and admire La Pedrera (Casa Mila) and Casa Batlo – we did the audio guided tour through La Pedrera, which I chose over the latter for the rooftop sculptures (Star Wars, anyone?), views and the furnished apartments. Wander down Passage de Gracia – the rest of the buildings aren’t exactly shabby either. And clearly you can’t miss La Sagrada Familia (again, book in advance). Early morning for fewer crowds, late afternoon for gorgeous rainbows of light streaming in the stained glass windows.
• Barceloneta beach – if you’re from Australia or New Zealand, the beaches won’t exactly wow you but a lovely few hours can be spent hiring a bike or rollerblades and exploring the coast line (we hired bikes from Green Bikes). 
• Picasso Museum: set in El Born in a maze of castle-like stone buildings complete with courtyards and gardens, this is one of the most complete collections of Picasso’s work in a city where he spent his formative years. Not to sound like a stuck record, but if you’re visiting Barcelona at peak times, book tickets ahead. They also have free tickets on Thursday evenings if you’re on a budget.
• Montjuic: a former quarry, then castle and military base, then site of the 1992 Barcelona Olympics overlooking Barcelona, and now a veritable trove of various attractions – museums, stadiums and gardens. Take the funicular railway from Parallel then wander up to the castle (it’s worth the entry for the views over the harbour). Walk back via the National Art Museum and the fountains leading up to it. 
• Bunkers del carmel: a beautiful spot up on the hills for a evening picnic, perfectly positioned to watch the sun coming down over Barcelona. 

Of course, this was only a short trip and there were countless other restaurants, bakeries, markets and cafes on the list to visit. Thank you again to everyone who sent me their recommendations! 

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A Prague Food & Wander Guide – a brief snapshot of our favourite places to grab coffee, modern Czech eateries and routes to maximise your sight-seeing time. 

Prague was the one destination on our trip that took me by surprise – that utterly exceeded expectations. And on so many levels: the sights were like being in a fairy tale, complete with a castle on a hill and rowboats in the river, the coffee culture was growing, and the food (once you know where to go) had me squeezing in more than three meals per day.  Though some areas were overwhelming packed with selfie-stick wielding tourists or Korean wedding photo-shoots (hello, Charles Bridge – see if you can spot the veil in one of the photos!), you can avoid them by heading out early in the morning and exploring suburbs outside the square kilometer of Old Town – which usually have much better views, food and coffee anyway. We stayed in a fantastic airbnb on the edge of Old Town – just far enough away on a sleepy street to not feel like tourist-central, yet close enough that everything we needed was in easy walking distance. So without further ado, here is snapshot of our favourite coffee shops, eateries and the best sightseeing tips we picked up along the way.

For more recommendations or if you are looking for a guided tour, I’d highly recommend checking out Taste of Prague.

 Coffee

• Onesip coffee: a tiny little cafe serving up Melbourne-worthy flat whites – the perfect place to start your day.
• EMA espresso bar: packed with locals getting their morning brew, EMA not only does the best coffee we had on the trip, it also does Czeh baked sweets – kolachee cakes, and our favourite buchta buns – like a freshly baked brioche filled with plum jam.
• Super Tramp Coffee: very, very hidden away down an alley and inside an old court yard on the border of New and Old Town, Super Tramp does great coffee and treats – my canele was perfect.
• Muj salek kavy: one of the few coffee shops that also does brunch – worth a trip if you are heading down to Karlin and have already visited Eska.
• Cafe Novy Svet: the best coffee across the bridge in the Prague Castle vicinity, and completely tucked away from the crowds (see below for more tips in this area). Our vanilla bean gelato affogatos here were stellar.

Food

• Eska: my absolute favourite eatery in Prague. A huge, double story space and bakery open all day, focused on seasonal produce and serving up modern interpretations of Czech food. Highlights included our caramelised apple french toast; the famous smoked potatoes in ash with dried egg yolk and kefir and the endless supply of housemade sourdough and churned butter.  Worth reserving for dinner – and then going back for brunch the next day!
• Sisters: a tiny lunch spot serving up countless varieties of chlebicek, the Czeh open faced sandwich – from beetroot hummus, goats cheese & walnut to roast beef on celery remoulade with fried shallots.
• Nase maso: just next door to Sisters (and just as small), Nase Maso normally has people spilling out the door. It’s a butchery that doubles as an all-day eatery – with the meatiest menu you can imagine. The dry-aged hamburger and beef tartar are legendary!
• Maso a kobliha: another butchery-turned-restaurant, but a little bigger and fancier this time. Start with the famous scotch eggs and try their vanilla creme patisserie doughnuts and salted burnt caramel tart for dessert.
• Pekarna Praktika: rivaling Eska for the best sourdough in Prague, this small outfit does breakfast well – coffee, fresh jams, bread straight from the oven and cinnamon scrolls. You can buy their sourdough by the loaf too – just check their hours first as they are not open every day.
• Bakeshop: the name says it all – our favourites were the juicy, jammy fruit crostata, complete with buttery pastry, and the apple strudel. There is a larger shop near old town, and a smaller outfit on the other side of Charles Bridge. Perfect for a pitstop.
• Pho Vietnam Tuan & Lan: who knew, but there is a sizable Vietnamese community in Prague – you can probably find better Vietnamese food than in most of Europe. If you are near Jirak Market, the beef vermicelli salad here is huge, cheap, and really freaking good.
• Wine Food Market: a gourmet Italian marketplace and bakery alongside a central food hall – think thin crust pizzas, Italy-worthy pastas served up on bustling long tables.
• Gelato-  Creme de la Creme, Angelato and Puro Gelato. For if you also can’t help but eat dessert twice a day while on holiday.

To see

• Charles Bridge & Old Town Square – the ultimate tourist attraction in Prague, Charles Bridge is only worth walking over early in the morning – you might be able to spot the daily throngs of crowds in some of the photos of the bridge from afar. Otherwise, you can walk over parallel bridges to get photos of Charles Bridge itself.
• Prague Castle Complex:  the largest ancient castle in the world, it is also worth seeing and again worth going early – the crowds build steadily after the opening time, particularly for the Gothic St Vitus Cathedral.
• From Prague Castle, walk up through the gardens and deer moat behind the castle to Cafe Novy Svet – it’s a quiet area that takes you out of the hustle of the castle entrance. Grab a coffee and wander to the Strahov Monastery – an abbey founded in the 12th century with an ornate, wood-and fresco paneled library straight from Harry Potter. Manuscripts here date back to 860AD.
• Petrin Tower : from the library, you can walk further up the hill to the Petrin observation tower for 360° views over Prague. By the way, it’s much cheaper to walk up the stairs than take the elevator!
• Lennon wall: this stretch of vibrant graffitied wall near the Charles Bridge began following John Lennon’s 1980 assassination, at a time when communist Czechoslovakia was tamping down on Western culture. Lennon became a pacifist hero for youth anti-communist protestors in Prague, and the wall inscribed with political Lennon inspired messages and Beatles lyrics. The original graffiti has been painted over countless times, but it is worth a visit if you are in the area.
• Letna Park and Beer Garden: a peaceful, leafy hilltop with some of the best views over the bridges of Prague – the perfect place to while away a few hours on a summer afternoon. It would also be a wonderful place for a picnic.
• Jirak Farmers Market: near the Pekarna Praktika bakery and Pho Vietnam tuan & lan, this local market is held Wednesday – Saturday mornings, with traditional Czeh food, fresh produce and coffee. It’s located in the residential Vinohrady district, full of colourful, elegant Art Deco houses and wide, tree lined streets – a great way to get off the tourist trail and see another side of Prague.
• Naplavka Farmers Market: I didn’t get to visit this market as it is only held on Saturdays, but by all accounts it is highly recommended if you get a chance to go – serving up coffee, fresh produce and dairy, takeaway meals and Czeh beers and wine.

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